Ministry of Craft: Develop Your Sewing Skills Course (Weeks 3 & 4)

Week 3

This week we started our pinny using some of the techniques we’ve learnt over the last two weeks, and learning some more.

As everywhere seems to be having a remnant sale at present I headed over to plush addict and picked up some end of the bolt plain purple and some mustard cotton with a white cross print.

It was a bit of a gamble as I wasn’t entirely sure what weight they’d arrive in. Turns out the mustard is lighter weight than the purple but I am hoping it wont matter too much when I using bias binding to edge the pinny.

On the plus side, the waistband and ties will be less likely to fold when I’m bouncing about the kitchen in my fab new apron.

Ministry of Craft weeks 3 and 4

The first thing we did was sew the waistband to the ties, then we folded and sewed leaving a gap for the main part of the pinny to be added to the waistband. Ministry of Craft weeks 3 and 4Alison helpfully used her turning tool to turn the ends inside out before I pressed them (rod for my own back with the thicker purple fabric…). I might well be sold on the tool, I normally use a safety pin and some embroidery floss, Alison did mention sewing in a piece of ribbon into the seam allowance too which I’d never thought of before, but would probably make things a million times easier than fussing about and getting frustrated.

After pressing the ties it was time to sew a gather on the main piece of the pinny, which went like a dream, especially now I know about using the pins to anchor the ends!  Ministry of Craft weeks 3 and 4
Ministry of Craft weeks 3 and 4

We then moved onto piping, which Alison gave us a demonstration of making, using a standard zipper foot.  The piping will be going in between the waistband and the main pinny piece. I was generously offered some lovely polka dot fabric to make mine with, which was a great match to both of my fabrics.

Unfortunately the piping feet were no where to be seen, so it was decided that we’d wait until week 4 to make the piping on our machines and attach to the pinny. This was no great bones for me as I like to get everything marked up and cut so I leave the fun bit (sewing!) to the end in one go.

Next up was bias binding. I do have some experience with this, in fact the first thing I ever made and blogged about on here was this dress, which had a huge amount of binding on it. As it was my first foray into bias binding I wasn’t so great at joining strips of it up though and we were taught two different methods of dong so in this class.

I went for the cut the ends off on the straight and sew method though, as the other looks too complicated for my dyslexic brain to even attempt!
Ministry of Craft weeks 3 and 4

I did my usual – folding the material at a right angle and pressing to make the first line of where the fabric needed to be cut and then measured amounts on either side. There is a waste of fabric if you do it this way but I am sure I will use it to line something or for a little craft project along the line.  Once my strips were cut and joined the end of the class was nigh and I was ready for week 4.

 

Week 4

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

We started week 4 having everything pre-cut, which was great because, as you know if you’ve followed my other posts, this is my least favourite bit of sewing!

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

We cracked on with the piping when the class started, Alison had nicely donated a piece of polka dot fabric from her stash so I had something to break up the purple. It was a perfect match (thank you!).

Piping is pretty easy, the foot does it all for you and it would be lovely to use to finish or decorate a garment with (piping foot now on my Christmas list).

My finished piece looked like this:

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

Using the piping foot we then sewed it to the main piece of the skirt, which went like a dream!

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

Then it was time to crack on with the bias binding. Alison shows us various ways of doing this, and I went for possibly the one which would take the most time but as my binding was in a thicker material it appeared to be the sensible option.

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

I sewed one side and then pressed open along the seam line, then folded the other half and pressed again, then pressed closed then pinned and sewed to finish. I have no idea if that makes any sense in the way it’s worded, but it worked for me.

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

The curve of the apron came out really well, even with the thickness of my binding.

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

When I’ve used bias binding previous, I’ve made my own with a tool and even though this way was more labour intensive it really has come out well and better than last time. I think I will most likely do it this way and put the extra time in from now on as the finish looks so good.

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

The final thing to do was to sew on the waistband et voila my apron was done.

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

I’m really pleased with it. No photos of me in it as my bump is so big now it looks quite comical (also quite satisfying putting it on my tailors dummy and realising my waist will be that size again!).

Ministry of Craft: weeks 3 and 4

I was a little sad to be finishing the course, MoC have been so great and it’s been brilliant learning new thing and new ways of doing old things which I think will definitely help me out in future.

It’s also been great meeting the other ladies on my course too and fun to be sewing together in a creative environment.

I’ll definitely be back for another course in future.

 

McCalls 2440: All Sewn Up

This weekend just gone I cracked on with making the lovely (and not very different from a Swirl) apron dress from McCalls vintage pattern number 2440.

Pattern Pieces Teal and Atom

As I couldn’t find any teal fabric in my local shop I ordered online, along with some rather expensive, but very pretty, Michael Miller atomic fabric. It was all medium weight cotton and I matched it with my Gutermann Sew All swatch booklet I’d recently purchased online (something rather handy to have if you’re ordering fabric online because it saved me lugging it to the haberdashery, or cutting a swatch off and taking it with me) and popped into Leon’s to pick up some thread.

 Teal and Atom Gutermann Sew All Swatch Book

It didn’t take me too long to cut the material which was a good job really, as I pretty much took over the dining room, it being the only space in the house that has room enough to cut what turned out to be a rather large skirt piece.

I marked up all of the pattern pieces using a tracing wheel and carbon, which is the first time I’ve used that method. I have used tacks in the past but boy oh boy; was this so much easier, even if it did take an extra bit of time to ensure all pieces were marked up correctly, the time it saved me in the long run was priceless.

I got to sewing and finished the bodice on the Saturday. I have to admit using the new sewing machine is brilliant. I braced myself for the thickness of the fabric about to go through (seam plus binding on the sleeves) and for the needles to refuse the task ahead but it just did what it was meant to do, no fuss no bother. It does make me wonder at how much I used to struggle.

 Teal and Atom Bodice Front Teal and Atom Bodice Back

I confused myself quite a lot when it came to bias binding. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how it worked when you stitched close to the line BUT I did eventually understand. I should say at this point I am mildly dyspraxic and I am dyslexic so sometime instructions don’t work the best for me. I made one mistake of sewing the bias binding to the inside of the sleeve first and had to break out the seam ripper but it was a lesson learnt.

I found these bias binding tutorials to be pricelss though: thank you Colette Patterns and Fashion Sewing Blog!

At that point though I decided to stop sewing for the evening, as mistakes are usually a sign that I’m tried and should start fresh the next day, which I did.

On Sunday I gathered the skirt, pinned the pleats (again brain did not function too well and I only had that eureka moment when I was munching through a sunday roast) then I made and attached the waist stay and attached the skirt to the bodice. I then made a huge amount of bias binding to finish the dress off with and put the machine away until the next day.

Teal and Atom Dress Bias Binding

Monday night after a return from work, I added the binding and a press stud on the back of the dress (it seemed to be gaping somewhat and I may replace with a covered button in the future) then popped it into the washer and waited to see what came out…and guess what did? Only a blummin beauty of a dress!

New to me on this sewing project:

Bias Binding (making and attaching)
Waist Stay
Pleats

All of which I found okay. My bias binding could be better, I did stray from the line a little in certain places and I don’t think anyone would get close enough to tell but it does need improving, mind you by the end of the ridiculous amount of binding I added to this dress I was becoming quite a dab hand!

The finished dress:

McCalls 2440 Finished

The front

McCalls 2440 Finished

The back (the binding does go all the way round by the way but the wind caught the side that was wrapped over!)

So what do you think?

I am, personally, extremely happy with how it’s turned out, I thought it would be a lot trickier than it turned out to be.

McCalls 2440: Sewing Project

I recently purchased this amazing vintage pattern from ebay. It was on buy it no for £8.99, it’s rather more than I’d usually spend but I have been in love with this style of dress for a while now but without the cash to purchase one of my own.

McCalls 2240

It is very much like the classic Swirl wrap dress  often available on ebay and etsy but usually costing around £50 – £100 that’s plus postage (and usually tax if it’s coming from America). The lovely ones are always at the higher end of the pricing too, which is why when I saw this pattern I snapped it up immediately.

Then there’s Heyday’s version, which again is quite expensive, usually around the £85 mark,  unless they’re on sale.

I have um-ed and ah-ed a little as it has so much bias binding on it, something I have never attempted before, but I do like to throw myself in at the deep end.

I have found some gorgeous teal cotton for the main material and for the bias binding (and maybe the pockets) a beautiful black atomic print cotton.

teal cotton

Teal cotton from fabric rehab 

atom cotton

Atomic print cotton from Frumble

I’m also guessing I’ll need one of these tape makers?  Something else to add to the stash.

I do like the thought of the two materials together, I am not sure about the pockets being so dark against the teal though, but I’ll just figure that one out when I come to it, I can always change my mind. Any thoughts would be of help though.

If anyone has used this pattern before or can give me any tips on bias binding on a curved edge etc that would be  a great help.

In the meantime I am off to London this weekend, to visit one of my best girls for her 30th. Then it’s fabric purchasing time and getting down to it. Wish me luck!