1960s – Stacey Stitch

Simplicity 7702: All Sewn Up – 60s Shift Dress

Published on March 22, 2015April 21, 2016 by Stacey Stitch9 Comments

My first sew of 2015. A few weeks ago I put a blog up for advice, after I scored some gorgeous vintage style fabric from John Lewis in the sale, asking what your opinions were on the pattern to pick.

In the end the simplicity won out. I wanted to try something different, something with a sixties silhouette different from the more tailored sews I’d done previously. The fabric seemed more suited to that. I decided to sew up a toile with some left over cotton that I had as I am a 34 in the bust but I have junk in my trunk, way more than is allowed for on the pattern.

I am so, so glad that I decided to do this because the toile was far too tight on the hips and it was throwing everything off shape wise. So I got out the Swedish tracing paper, made some adjustments and came up with a much more pleasing and better fitting toile.

I used this to cut the fabric and with gritted teeth marked it all out to ensure that I matched the pattern at the back of the dress, which turned out very well even if I do say so myself, first time almost perfect, I decided to leave it at that. It was only a tiny bit out of sync and I wasn’t about to tempt fate by taking the zip out again and seeing it all back in only for it to not match at all.

This is the first time that I’ve ever sewn up a pattern putting the zip in the back before sewing the sides in. Easier x one million. I don’t even know why I haven’t considered doing it before. I think I’m just a stickler for the instructions. I must do what they say. I might remedy that in the future.

I tried the bodice on and had a bit of a worry when the centre back wasn’t lying flat against my skin, until I realised I was wearing the shoulders a little high and they should have been sat a little further down.

I then had the sleeve quandary. Knowing how much I dread setting in sleeves I considered the flat method for a while BUT I decided just to knuckle down and get on with it in the end and sewed the side seams before setting in the sleeves traditionally.

They went in like a dream. I pinned and pinned and I ensured I sewed in slowly and carefully easing them in as I went and sewing from inside the sleeve side rather than the bodice side if that makes sense. After a good old pressing they looked great.

I took three inches off the bottom for the hem allowance rather than the two and three quarter as specified on the pattern, and voila I was done.

So here I am in my new dress.

There are a couple of things to consider:

I have started going running. A lot. Which means my hips are now smaller than they were, hopefully I don’t look like I’m wearing a tent.

I love that it’s not fitted because I feel free! I love wearing more structured garments but there is something so gloriously comfortable about this shift dress while still looking super smart.

What do you think? Have you made anything similar? I;d love to see your version – link me up!

Craftsy: Sew Retro – The Gertie Bombshell Dress So Far

Published on May 22, 2014 by Stacey Stitch4 Comments

I thought I’d give a little update on my Sewing for Vegas Sew Retro bombshell dress and my experience of using Craftsy for the first time.

I signed up for this course with a little trepidation, boning? yikes! But you never get anywhere unless you push yourself do you? And in some respects I have all too easily become used to doing what I can do and sticking with the “safe” stuff.

So first things first:

When I found out about craftsy I thought it would be marvellous for me. As you may know I am dyslexic, so looking at instructions in the written word are usually quite confusing.

Add with that mild dyspraxia and you have a whole heap of confusion when it comes to things such as left and right.

I learn so well when people show me physically how to do something rather than from reading instructions, hence the idea of video classes which I can access at any point seemed perfect.

So sign up I did.

I downloaded the course materials and pattern (easy enough) ensuring that the test square was the right size and then ordered everything I needed to make up the dress (apart from the boning – you really need to measure your bodice pieces for that).

I decided on a cerise medium weight cotton for the main fabric with the lining in a lightweight light blue and white polka dot.

I cracked on with making up the pattern.

Now, I know this should have been easy and it was up to a certain point but honestly, being told that it’s “fun, like doing a puzzle” doesn’t actually make it any more fun and less fiddly.

Oh, and if you’re like me and don’t have a table big enough, prepare for some backache.

This was however soothed by watching the amazingly trashy cultness of Showgirls while I was doing it.

Next up was marking the pattern pieces on calico for the toile of the bodice.

When I first discovered that the pattern had no seam allowance I was struck by a little bit of fear, I completely didn’t understand how beneficial this actually would be and how easy it would make the whole process. Thread tracing is a new one on me but I feel like it’s something that might change my sewing life!

After a short time I had my cups made and decided it was time to leave it for the night.

The next day I began stitching the rest of the pieces together. It took me about 40 minutes of not understanding why the cups weren’t fitting into the bodice sections before I realised I’d sewn them on the wrong way round (dylexia-dyspraxia strikes again!). Once they were un-picked and re-sewn I had a bodice which looked pretty fantastic.

I just made a few adjustments to the height of the cups (these would make me blush in their original form, and I’m not shy by any means) which Gertie talks you through every step of the way, There’s also a section on a full bust adjustment, which I didn’t use but I did watch and it was very thorough. It will be a great reference if I make something for someone in the future who is bustier than me.

I added a little height to the back of the bodice too, in line with the height I’d added to the cups and then I graded this down towards the closure section where the zip will be inserted.

After this I made the changes to my pattern pieces to incorporate the extra material and I cut more calico for the interlining, marked it up and used these pieces as a pattern for the main bodice material, which I then cut and tacked together.

Then I made up the bodice as instructed, step by step, including inserting a bit of padding to the cups and a few other tailoring techniques as shown (I don’t want to give everything away).

This where I’m up to, an almost complete bodice. I am so happy with how it looks.

My thoughts on the class and on craftsy:

I am really loving doing something new and more challenging with guidance from others who have completed the course and from the instructor. I would definitely recommend this type of learning to anyone who is talking up sewing. The instructions are clear and concise and it is invaluable to be able to see in motion what you can only read about in other respects. The little tailoring and hand sewing techniques and finishes and shared experiences from Gertie are well worth signing up for, never mind the fact you’ll have a gorgeous dress at the end of it.

I fully intend to carry on doing more craftsy courses after I have finished this one. What I have learned so far is so much more than I thought I would, and it’s great to find out little tips and tricks so that if (like me) you’re learning as you go, and on your own, you find speedier and more accurate ways to make garments.

PLEASE VOTE FOR ME

8 DAYS TO GO AND EVERY VOTE COUNTS!

If you liked this blog please vote for me in the NVAs as I’ve been nominated under the Best Vintage Fashion/Lifestyle Blog category. Voting is open throughout May and it’s a simple click to select Stacey Stitch and then enter your email address to confirm the vote (you wont be spammed). Clicking on the photo or links above should take you straight to the website.

I need to be in the top 3 and I’m currently in 4th place. Only the top 3 go through to the judges panel. Help a fellow vintage sewing enthusiast out?

It’ll only take a few minutes of your time if you have it spare! Thank you!

I’ve been Nominated in the National Vintage Awards: Please vote for me!

Published on May 2, 2014May 2, 2014 by Stacey Stitch6 Comments

Super fantastic new for my little blog: I’ve been nominated under the Best Vintage Fashion/Lifestyle Blog category of the UK National Vintage Awards .

It means so much to me to be nominated, especially as at the end of this month it’ll be my blog’s first birthday (special giveaway to follow so keep your eyes peeled!). If I get shortlisted to the final it would be even better, the competition is very strong with other fantastic blogs listed, it’s going to be a very close call, so if you read my blog and you like what you see please vote for me.

Voting is open throughout May and it’s a simple click to select Stacey Stitch and then enter your email address to confirm the vote. Clicking on the photo or links above should take you straight to the website. It’ll only take a few minutes of your time if you have it spare.

Thanks to everyone who has voted so far, it really warms my heart to know that people are backing me for the NVAs and I am so happy to be representing the online sewing community.

It makes me feel like the dreams I have of sewing for a living could actually come true in the future, knowing I have the support means the world to me.

Big love and lots of thanks

Stacey xx

March Vintage Pattern Giveaway

Published on March 28, 2014March 28, 2014 by Stacey Stitch5 Comments

This month the pattern I’m giving away it this beautiful early 50s blouse, 34bust, McCalls 3088.

To enter please comment below, visit my facebook page like and comment on the post related to this blog:

or visit my twitter and retweet the giveaway tweet.

I’ll pick a winner next Friday, 4th April.

Good luck folks!

Simplicity 4980: All Sewn Up

Published on September 23, 2013September 23, 2013 by Stacey Stitch19 Comments

To kick back into sewing after a little absence I decided as I had a week off that I’d try something a little more testing than usual and went for this lovely pattern with a hidden collar and a soft pleat. I had some blue cotton in my stash so cracked on with cutting the pattern pieces out that weren’t already cut and pining them out.

It wasn’t until everything was cut out that I suddenly realised that some pieces were missing; the collar interfacing pieces. I was very grateful that this was all as they’re pretty easy to knock up, so I cut out the extra bits and ensured they were the correct size.

It took me three days to finish the dress. I have no idea why I chose something difficult, I have only made a collar on a dress once before and it was wonky and no where near and confusing as this one. My dyslexic/dyspraxic brain and vintage pattern instructions do not mix and I spent a night sewing things the wrong way round and mulling over instructions before putting them to one side only to have a full on EUREKA moment at half 11 at night when it finally clicked in my somewhat befuddled brain. And thus the next day the collar was finished!

Then followed the sleeves (easy peasy – although my life would be drastically improved by the purchase of a sleeve roll….a rolled up towel isn’t quite cutting the mustard).

And then came the soft pleated skirt. Again, after only doing two pleats on any dress before this was trial and error and basting and re-basting (me and my seam ripper are now very firm friends). Thankfully when I attached it to the bodice it was perfect and I wasn’t again pulling my hair out.

There is a side zip closing, which is new on me too but which I managed to get right the second time round when I had to alter it because the first time I had somehow managed to make the bodice wonky and it didn’t meet where it should have done (ah, hello seam ripper me old chum!).

When I did finish and hem it up I was very proud of what I’d achieved, this has by far been the most technically challenging dress I’ve made and it was perfect for the vow renewal that we attended on Sunday.

I added a vintage brooch and my Great Nana Wilde’s 60s paste bracelet for the perfect accompaniment. I even got to wear my gorgeous blue Kiss Me Deadly stockings for the first time (if you don’t know about KMD you should!) but enough about my undercrackers, what do you think?

Any tips on making sense on vintage instructions? I don’t know if it is just me, or if it’s just because they were written at a time when most people had sewing skills to a certain degree.

As always, any feedback and help greatly appreciated, thank you!

Footnote:

I know I’ve been a little quiet of late and unfortunately it’s for a sad reason, my (step) Father In Law passed away a few weeks back and I’ve been concentrating on making Tim as happy as I possibly can and supporting the in-laws in what has been a difficult month or so and obviously sewing has been on the back burner.

Ken always complimented me on the way I dressed and the things I created and I’m ever grateful for the kind words and the welcome he gave me into the family. He was a gentleman to the end, I will always think of him ‘pom pom pom’-ing around the house, making those around him smile and laughing his bellowing laugh.

Simplicity 4675: All Sewn Up

Published on August 2, 2013 by Stacey Stitch47 Comments

I threw myself in at the deep end a little. Thinking along the lines of “if you don’t try something that looks hard soon you never will” I settled on Simplicty 60s pattern No. 4675 in View 1. I chose a burgundy cotton, which again came from my stash (what will I do when I run out of stash material?!).

There are a couple of things that I was a little concerned about and they did indeed prove to be tricky.

The facing on the neck I managed to (just about) get right, it has a tiny gather in it but as I have decided I’ll be making this dress again at some point I’m using this as a test dress, it’s only meant for work as it so so I’m sure I can get away with it being a little scrappy in places.

The sleeves are more than a little puffy for ones which are meant to be set in, but in all honestly I lost the will to live after trying again and again to get them perfect. Advice needed: can someone please explain to me how I am meant to get them without any gathering? I have read a fair few tutorials, looked at videos and I still can;t get it right. Is it just a case of practice makes perfect or am I missing some vital step here? Any advice would be appreciated.

The zip closure at the top isn’t perfect but it’s the first time I’ve done a zip like this, which is overlapped on one side. I think I maybe just didn’t pin it where I meant to when sewing it in, but again this is something I can improve on for next time. I did find it incredibly fiddly though, I think I just get too excited about wanting to finish something and it all goes to pot.

The part which I thought would be the most tricky, namely the ruffle, turned out to the the easiest out of all of it. Which was a nice surprise! I am finding the simplest looking parts to be the most time consuming. Lesson learnt.

Hopefully the next time I make this dress I’ll be able to correct past mistakes, it’s certainly been a learning curve but overall I’m very happy with it and even happier that I’ve lost the weight to actually fit in it!

sleeve failure…but the pretty vintage brooch makes up for it right?

So, honest opinions, what do you think? Any advice, sleeve or otherwise, would be greatly appreciated!

New Pattern Purchases (& Pattern Giveaway)

Published on July 20, 2013 by Stacey Stitch5 Comments

I appear to have somewhat of a pattern buying problem at the moment.

I’ve recent added these beauties to my collection:

And I have also added these two. Tim thinks they’re horrible but I’ll be the one laughing when I’m all snuggled up in winter in a lovely flannel gown!

Giveaway

Can you give the below 2 patterns a good home?

The first is this Simplicity 6197 Bust 44. It was advertised on wrongly on ebay as B34 so I don’t think I’ll use as it’s it’s quite far off my measurements. More details can be found here.

I haven’t checked the pieces but in the original listing it said they were all there.

The second is this repro Vintage Vouge V1072 40s suit pattern. It’s in size DD (12-14-16-18)

It’s brand new and uncut. More details on the pattern and sizing can be found here. As far as I am aware this pattern is now out of print.

When I first started to get into vintage clothes I was very much in love with 40s designs but I’m more partial to late 50s -60s rather than earlier now so I don’t see myself making this up at any point.

If you’d like either of these patterns please comment below (with Simplicity and/or Vogue in the body of the text) by 28th July, follow my blog and I’ll announce the new owners on here on 31st.

I’ll be using a random number generator to pick the winner/s.

Simplicity 2654 & McCalls 7292: All Sewn Up

Published on July 14, 2013July 14, 2013 by Stacey Stitch13 Comments

I have been sewing, honest! I know I’ve been quiet but with the heatwave we’re having at the moment and Wimbledon proving to be quite a distraction it’s taken me quite a lot longer than I thought it would to complete the skirt and top combo I started a couple of weeks ago.

I started with the McCalls 7292 view B top and went for quite a thick red cotton that I had in my stash. The top was quite simple to make but did come out a little bit bigger than I would have liked. I’m not sure if it’s because I’ve lost weight recently or if I should have allowed some ease on the pattern. I have used this pattern before (view C) and it has fit me like a glove so I’m not entirely sure why it was different this time around.

I decided once it was finished to embroider a flower on one of the shoulders to make it a bit more interesting and it came out quite nicely. The patterns are ones that were handed to me from my Nana, now her eyesight isn’t too good she can’t do much needlework.

I started on the skirt from Simplicity 2654 view 3, a full circle skirt. I used quite a thin black cotton and it was simple from start to finish (apart from taking ages to cut out as I was watching the men’s final and getting very excited about Murray!)

I did embroider the bottom with the larger flower pattern, hoping that it would lift the skirt a bit as it looks very black. The red against the black didn’t make it pop as much as I thought it would. I know that might sound a bit silly but I did think after maybe I should have put some red ric rac on the bottom of it, then again it might have made it look a little cartoon-y and this is, really, a top and skirt for work so it doesn’t have to be too colourful.